Saturday, November 15, 2008

Friday, November 14, 2008

Coming soon...The Ghats of Varanasi

Varanasi lies on the banks of the river Ganges. Pilgrims from all over India and the wider world are drawn to this city; like moths to a flame, for it is here that the Ganges is at its most sacred. The 'Ghats' are a line of stone steps that snake along the banks of the Ganges for hundreds of metres. These are same steps from which the faithful give offerings to the holy river, take a dip in the fetid waters or cremate their loved ones; the ashes of whom are then dispersed in the river - thus contributing to its already muddy appearance. Yesterday was a festival day and the crowds were larger and more viscous then usual. It was an awesome sight to behold from the safety of the wooden boat; a bank teeming with thousands of pilgrims, the air infused with the chanting of 'ohm, Ram ohm' and the tremulous flames of millions of little candle lamps flickering forever into the musty distance. One word: spectacular

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

The Taj Mahal

'a tear drop upon the cheek of time'
(Rabindranath Tagore)







































The Taj Mahal is the ultimate monument to love. So heart broken was Shah Jahan when his favourite wife Mumtaz Mahal died during giving birth to their 14th child, that he commissioned the construction of this monument to her memory. The Taj Mahal's construction commened in 1631 (the year of his wife's death) using the finest materials from all over Asia and the Empire. The translucent white marble was brought from Rajasthan, the jasper from Punjab, jade and crystal from China. The turquoise was from Tibet and the Lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, while the sapphire came from Sri Lanka and the carnelian from Arabia.

A labour force of twenty thousand workers was recruited across northern India. Sculptors from Bukhara, calligraphers from Syria and Persia, inlayers from southern India, stonecutters from Baluchistan, a specialist in building turrets, and another who only carved marble flowers. How much did it all cost? The cost of construction at the time has been estimated at 32 million rupees which; if converted to todays rates, amounts to Trillions of Dollars!

The actual Tomb of Mumtaz Mahal has the following inscriptions: 'O Noble, O Magnificent, O Majestic, O Unique, O Eternal, O Glorious... '

Who said love doesn't conquer all?

Monday, November 10, 2008

Delhi Delhicious

The 'Qutub Minar' complex. This is the worlds tallest brick minaret (not in image above) at 72 metres and was completed in 1386. The structure even today towers over everything in Delhi. You can imagine the affect it would have had in the 14th century! It was commissioned by the first Muslim ruler of Delhi and was designed to showcase the might and awe of Islam


Fine filligree 'Jalee' ornamental work in the Tomb of Humayun. Notice the Islamic motifs. Islam forbids any representations of life thus the reason why much of Islamic architecture is dressed in elaborate geometric motifs




View of the Grand Gate from Humayun's Tomb. The gardens that surround the Tomb are a common component of Islamic architecture. Gardens represent paradise; what better way to accommodate a mausoleum then in man's image of heaven


Humayun's tomb as seen from inside the main chamber. Notice the ghost hiding on the left hand side...




Street life courtesy of Delhi's vibrant, crazy and chronically congested (with everything that life can throw at you) Chadni Chowk!


The faithful performing their 'ablution' (ritual washing) in the outside pool in preparation for prayer in the Jamia Masjid


I spotted this kid attempting to feed the cat. The family of four reside within the walls of the Jamia Masjid and live on handouts from the faithful. Mosques and Temples in India frequently contain a regular mob of alm seekers. Alms are especially free flowing on religious days!


The Jamia Masjid has a large population of pigeons that live in the minarets and turrets of the mosque structure. The pigeons also receive 'alms' in the form of seeds that are thrown on the main prayer area. As a result bird shit is common but an army of busy and efficient cleaners ensure that the area is clean during prayer times!


Kids will play wherever they are regardless. Play is an integral part of growing up and these are the lucky few who at least have a chance at play - many are not so lucky and are found begging on the streets




Rickshaws pulled by bare footed humans (Tanna Rickshaws) are banned in Delhi though they are still prevalent in Kolkata. Bicycle rickshaws are considered more ethical and are still common. The Government has considered banning these but has met opposition from the rickshaw pullers themselves; many of whom feel that they would starve if there livelihood was taken away


View from inside the 'Red Fort' (lal qila). This is now a carcass of it's once former glorious self. Much of it having been destroyed in the Indian Mutiny


Moghul style arches in the Red Fort. The red sandstone used to construct these and other structures was procured from Agra

The disabled have it tough in India. Still, at least this wonderful contraption allows the owner to move about. Notice his withered right leg

Spice merchant in Chadni Chowk. The smells of the spice market attack the nostrils as you stroll through the mazes and narrow alleys that snake off the main bazaar



Street life in Delhi. The photography in Delhi has a natural dusty look thanks to the air! There is a constant haze above Delhi that the sun barely penetrates thus imparting everything with a wonderful 'sepia' tinge. This is great for photography but not so great for the lungs!

Front facade of Humayun's Tomb. Notice the human figures in the corner. I included them in the frame to give the structure a sense of scale




The Mughal emperor Humayans Tomb was completed in 1570. It was commissioned by his widow Hamida Banu Begum. It was the first building in the Sub-continent to incorporate Persian - Islamic styles. Later on the architecture of the mausoleum was adapted and improved to give the crowning glory of the Mughals or their Magnus Opus as you might want to call it: The Taj Mahal