In their hey-day they were a national institution. Providing the staple food (starch and protein) for the incumbent residents of inner city tenements. The thick chunky chips, the vinegar, North Sea Cod, the wrapping newspaper, the Chinese chip-shop owners (typically husband and wife team with kids helping out on weekends). Then there was the awful decor. The 60's style front serving counters (reminiscent of the bridge of the 60s incarnation of the Enterprise in Star-Trek). The formica clad tables. The kitsch Chinese wall-paper. And of course the black and white menus: chip roll, curry and chips, and er...chinese dishes.
"There's no profit in it any more" cries Mr Tan (owner of 'Foo-Lan fish & chips' on Shackewell Lane, Dalston, Hackney). "Nobody eats chips anymore. There used to be school next door and kids come and queue at lunch-time. But no more. Business good then. Now there's an academy and kids not allowed out anymore at lunch-time" bellows Mr Tan
What about the locals?
"The locals are poor families. Black families. They don't eat fish and chips. Too expensive. Only white people eat fish and chips. Not enough white people in area so not sell many fish and chips. I want to sell business and buy flats upstairs and rent out" moans the belagured Mr Tan.
"Bag of potatoes cost £97. After cutting out black bits, not much potatoe left. Not make much profit" Said Mr Tan.
Nowadays a bag of Fish and Chips will set you back a fiver atleast. With the profusion of 'Kentucky fried chicken' joints with their £2.99 for 2 pieces chicken + fries + drink - no wonder the chip shops are feeling the pinch. There are 2 main forces at work here in my opinion:
1) The Kentucky joints operate as franchises and have more power over suppliers. Whereas the chip shops are sole traderships lacking clout who get the rear end of the deal
2) Declining North Sea Cod levels have led to wholsesale increase in Cod prices. Chickens on the other hand are much easier to rear and prices have in-fact been declining
3) Consumer tastes have also been changing with a much larger variety of fast-food joints gracing the high streets
The story of the decline of traditional fish and chip shops is also the story of the changing landscape of inner-city London. It is the story of North Sea Cod under siege. It is the story of Kurdish/Turkish immigration. It is the story of the mighty Doner Kebab. But most importantly, it is ther story of globalisation. The story of the decline of Hackney's Fish and Chip shops is a story with an international cast and a global stage...
