Sunday, July 12, 2009

The Pilgrim

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'On the edge of the desert; in the gap between sun and iris, I fell through. She caught me between wing-tips and then she said to me (in an almost whisper): 'Go fly'. So I flew. I miss her always'

(A poet)


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'Call me Ishmael. Some years ago - never mind how long precisely - having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me on shore, I thought I would sail about a little and see the world...and I saw, what many men have dreamed they saw'

(Moby-Dick or, The Whale)



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'You find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No Sir, when a man is tired of London he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford'

(Samuel Johnson)



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'
When the pilgrim is done with travelling; when he returns home from his voyagings with staff in hand and soles toughened; he realises that he has travelled no great distance at all - merely from himself to himself'

(Wasim Shafi - Filosopher, Fotografer, Professeur, Accountant, Pilgrim)


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Currently watching...The Black Album (A new play by Haneif Kureishi)


Saturday, July 04, 2009

Unguarded Moments

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Thursday, June 25, 2009

Desert skies...Ethiopia

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He calls himself the Vagabond - he does, he does, he does
This two legged original of the sands - you see, you see, you see
His foot-prints heavy on the grains - they walk, they walk, they walk
Zephyrs erase like bedouin feints - the prints, the prints, the prints

They say he has no home to go - they do, they do, they do
They say he tramps the world for love - ti's true, ti's true, ti's true




_______

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Coming soon...The odd journals of a Naturalist on earth

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Currently watching...

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Currently wearing...

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Clothes were invented to keep the elements at bay. To keep our insides protected from the outsides. Function over Form. Nowadays things are in reverse order. Clothes advertise. They are a billboard sign that says: 'This Is Who I Am'. Sometimes clothes scream. But it is better if they whisper. Style is important. Through the medium of fashion you advertise who you are - what you're about, what's going in that head of yours (if anything is going in that head of yours), the sort of women you go for (or men), what you're like in bed (an insatiable tiger Grrrrrhhh! or a pussy cat Meeeoooow!). Clothes can also reveal what you do for a living - are you a rockstar, artiste, musician, professuer, evolutionary biologist, or (god forbid) an accountant. Clothes also speak how much money you make, the sort of friends you hang out with, if you have a girlfriend, whether you're a member of the 'Electricity Pylon of the Month Fan Club'. The cut of your jacket and the shoes you wear say more about you then your CV.

The most important thing when it comes to clothes is the 'fit'. If the clothes you wear look as if they were tailored to your particular and unique body proportions, if they look as if they will fit you and only you in the whole wide world, then you will be in sartorial heaven. For example there is nothing like a blazer that fits perfectly. It's length, when arms are dangling on the side, should not go beyond the middle knuckle of your thumb. It should give you a shape and not make you look like a homogeneous cylinder. It can be combined with a white shirt and trousers for a smart look, or with jeans and a printed t-shirt, as casual attire. There is fun to be had in fashion. It's a kind of pretend and play. A play with who you are. A play with who you wanna be.

Thereare365daysperyear.com
Youcanbewhoyouwanttobe.com
Whoshallibetoday.com


(above items from 'AllSaints' clothing)
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Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Lecture to go to / brain cells to exercise / Jurassic park to roam

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(Shhh!)...A secret: some of the best stuff to do in London...is totally free! Oh yes. It cost nothing. Not a squid. Not a penny. Not a cheese cracker. Not even a potatoe. Nothingo. Zilch. ££Nil. Consider the above seminar at Imperial College for example: Free! And it's on Dinosaurs. Everybody loves Dinosaurs. And there's plenty more like it where it came from...Lectures on 'cloaking devices', the latest on Brazillian 'deforestation', 'bacterial sex dynamics' and how early earth meteorite bombardment may have contributed to making earth habitable to life. And there's tea and biscuits too. 'Refreshments' they call it. To refresh your mind after a hard hours concentration. You can take notes and ask pertinent questions and pretend you're back at university as an undergraduate - dreaming of changing the world - again.

Look if you really want to impress that lovely girlfriend of yours, you know show her how much you care and what a totally radical dude you are, what better way then to take her, for example, to the 'Royal College of Mines Annual Keynote Lecture on Explosive Hydrogen Sulphide Gaseous Pond Emissions' - It'll be a blast. She'll love you to the ends of the earth (literally). If she has a tantrum and starts throwing a mighty stink, you can blame the Hydrogen Sulphide...

Sunday, June 14, 2009

What I watched today...at my local 'Rio' cinema in Hackney

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Almost every film Werner Herzog makes is savage and incisive. Encounters at the End of the World is no different. Far-out and unforgettable, it is set at McMurdo Station, a settlement in Antarctica populated by professional dreamers masquerading as scientists, one of whom is a woman whose party trick is to have herself zipped up in a luggage bag...

Like much of Herzog's previous work, this film is about crazies, freak-shows and restless pioneers in search of new horizons who are tempted to try and tame wild incorrigible nature. There is much to like here: like the scene where he asks a shy but brilliant penguin expert whether, in his twenty year career of studying them, he has ever encountered insanity amongst penguins! There is a brief moment when the expert pauses to think : then follows a shot of a lone penguin separating and wandering off from the flock and heading, on its own, towards the mountains. Why? Who knows? But one thing is certain: it will die. It is these wanderers, be they penguin or human, that Herzog is attracted to.

He prefers to see Antarctica as an endless void, an inhuman space. He offers image after image whose beauty is so strange as to seem extra-terrestrial. Composer Henry Kaiser creates a sound design whose eeriness is merely amplified by the sound of underwater seals and Herzog's own idiosyncratic direction. Fabulously weird and wonderful! Essential viewing.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Travels amongst the desert dwellers

The thermometer showed an altitude of 3,350 feet: under the tree's cool shade, the climate reminded me of Southern Italy. I pinched a buttercup from the soil and rolled it between thumb and forefinger viewing the horizon through its petals. My head was suffering from the rancid breeze that blew in from the gulf of Aden and then there was the matter of the water; brackish with clods of grime - it required delicate sieving in the palms of the hand before drinking. I swilled it about in my mouth brushing its wetness along the top of my palette but still it remained tainted with the odour of the cowhide jugs in which it was stored. The sun sank towards the west carving long beams upon the hills. It'd been a long day. We'd done 12 miles in a straight line from Zaylah. Presently the rice was boiled for us on the fire by the indefatigable women. A baby goat was slaughtered for our dinner and its meat was most tender and delicious: the melt-in-your-mouth morsels nourishing those tired legs and aching muscles. After dinner we sat around the fire and lit the tobacco pipes and watched the silky moon rise to the apex of the firmament. We lay sprawled beneath it with arms under our heads; its soft glow imparting the world in a dreamlike countenance. I watched a streak of nimbus cloud scud across it; its silhouette seemingly catching on something and the whole mass melting away with me into sleep. After a sound night under the moon we arose at 5am and loaded the camels. It was a raw morning and a stiff breeze blew in from the coast and settled between the folds of our clothes. As the sun rose in the sky it lit the surrounding hills like folds of skin, and behind us the line of the blue sea was raised above the ground like a ledge by the phenomenon of optical refraction. The Muslims of the Somal region have over the years erected various mosques for purposes of prayer. These dot the landscape like welcome gas stations along a motorway. At midday, to escape from the oppressive sun reigning heavy blows upon our heads, we sheltered in the lee of one of these 'Palaces of Allah'. Their white-washed stucco walls shimmering like marble in the sun. Their circular niches all face Mecca and on the path ahead we spied many oblong white slabs planted deep in the soil, directing the wary traveller to Mecca.

The peoples who inhabit this land are the 'Essa'. An oxymoronic tribe: childish and docile, cunning yet deficient in judgement, kind and fickle, good humoured yet bad-tempered, generous and vindictive, cruel and treacherous. Robbery constitutes an honourable endeavour for them, and murder? Ha! Murder maketh the hero amongst them. But they have their good points. They will always honour a bargain and will rarely lie: a broken promise being considered a matter of pride. And they are importunate beggars. Many times they would sit outside my tent, watching my every move. One must be careful to take out one's belongings only when not being watched. The Essa are distinguished from the wider population by their blackness and a premature baldness, amongst the men, about the temples. Their hair is dry and frizzled and as greasy as a frying pan. The learned man can be distinguished amongst them by the presence of a topee on the head and beads of Rosary constantly threaded between their fingers. The Hajjis (those who have made the 'Hajj' pilgrimage to Mecca) are most esteemed and officiate in disputes. These men engender respect amongst the tribe on account of their being able to recite 'by rote' verses from the Quran. They seem to have verses tailored for all occasions. I was much impressed by their learning but they are most ignorant in the sciences. The people of this part of Ethiopia, though predominantly Muslim, still retain echoes of a shamanistic idolatrous past. The history of Islam here is one of building on top of older African traditions. As a result the Essa will not drink from a certain stream or eat a certain animal - due to the presence of bad spirits. Thus superstitious talk abounds: for example the sound of a certain bird if heard thrice between the rising and setting of the sun is a bad omen. Travelling by night under a full moon brings bad luck and any old women; who has managed to live beyond the age of sixty (a feat rare in this part of the world) is considered to harbour powers of witchcraft.

Sitting amongst these benighted primitives, ignorant yet kind, benign and yet trecherous, one obtains a flavour of how man has thought and fought for most of his history. Spirits and sprites and goblins are as much a part of their world as the stuff of flesh like goats and camels. Theirs is a simplicity of life and a childish world view - and yet from these roots sprout shoots of unimaginable cruelty and suffering. The desert is forbidding. It is not a kind place. It is a harsh world, and it seeps into the bones and skin of these desert dwellers. You are naked. Naked before the indifference of a cruel Nature. Yet people still live here - have lived here for thousands upon thousands of generations. Generations heaped upon one another like stones in a wall of time whose foundations go back to lost times. Choice doesn't come into it. Each of us is a stone in that wall. We inherit the world we find ourselves in from our forebears. Some people are fortunate enough to be born into less harsher climes where life is not such a struggle every day. Others, like these Somal are not so fortunate. We must make-do or die. Fortunately most people make do.

_______

The times they are a-changin'

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Imperial rising...come on Imperial!

Discover the top 100 universities in the world from the THE - QS World University Rankings.

2007 Rank2006 RankSchool NameCountry
Source: QS Quacquarelli Symonds (www.topuniversities.com)
Copyright © 2004-2007 QS Quacquarelli Symonds Ltd.
Click here for copyright and limitations on use.
11HARVARD UniversityUnited States
2=2University of CAMBRIDGEUnited Kingdom
2=3University of OXFORDUnited Kingdom
2=4YALE UniversityUnited States
59IMPERIAL College LondonUnited Kingdom
610PRINCETON UniversityUnited States
7=7CALIFORNIA Institute of Technology (Calt...United States
7=11University of CHICAGOUnited States
925UCL (University College London)United Kingdom
104MASSACHUSETTS Institute of Technology (M...United States
1112COLUMBIA UniversityUnited States
1221MCGILL UniversityCanada
1313DUKE UniversityUnited States
1426University of PENNSYLVANIAUnited States
1523JOHNS HOPKINS UniversityUnited States
1616AUSTRALIAN National UniversityAustralia
1719University of TOKYOJapan
1833University of HONG KONGHong Kong
196STANFORD UniversityUnited States
20=35CARNEGIE MELLON UniversityUnited States
20=15CORNELL UniversityUnited States
228University of California, BERKELEYUnited States
2333University of EDINBURGHUnited Kingdom
2446KING'S College LondonUnited Kingdom
2529KYOTO UniversityJapan
2618École Normale Supérieure, PARISFrance
2722The University of MELBOURNEAustralia
2837ÉCOLE POLYTECHNIQUEFrance
2942NORTHWESTERN UniversityUnited States
3040University of MANCHESTERUnited Kingdom
3135The University of SYDNEYAustralia
3254BROWN UniversityUnited States
33=50University of BRITISH COLUMBIACanada
33=19National University of SINGAPORE(NUS)Singapore
33=45University of QUEENSLANDAustralia
3614PEKING UniversityChina
3764University of BRISTOLUnited Kingdom
38=29University of MICHIGANUnited States
38=50The CHINESE University of Hong KongHong Kong
4028TSINGHUA UniversityChina
4131University of CALIFORNIA, Los Angeles (U...United States
4224ETH Zurich (Swiss Federal Institute of T...Switzerland
4338MONASH UniversityAustralia
4441University of NEW SOUTH WALESAustralia
4527University of TORONTOCanada
4670OSAKA UniversityJapan
4766BOSTON UniversityUnited States
4869University of AMSTERDAMNetherlands
4943NEW YORK University (NYU)United States
5046The University of AUCKLANDNew Zealand
51=32University of TEXAS at AustinUnited States
51=63SEOUL National UniversityKorea, South
53=58HONG KONG University of Science & Techno...Hong Kong
53=78TRINITY College DublinIreland
55=79University of WISCONSIN-MadisonUnited States
55=84University of WASHINGTONUnited States
5773University of WARWICKUnited Kingdom
5844University of CALIFORNIA, San DiegoUnited States
5917LONDON School of Economics and Political...United Kingdom
6058HEIDELBERG UniversitätGermany
6196Katholieke Universiteit LEUVENBelgium
62105University of ADELAIDEAustralia
6386DELFT University of TechnologyNetherlands
64111The University of WESTERN AUSTRALIAAustralia
65=90University of BIRMINGHAMUnited Kingdom
65=98Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität MünchenGermany
6782Technische Universität MÜNCHENGermany
68102University of SHEFFIELDUnited Kingdom
6961NANYANG Technological UniversitySingapore
7085University of NOTTINGHAMUnited Kingdom
71=111UPPSALA UniversitySweden
71=61DARTMOUTH CollegeUnited States
7377University of ILLINOISUnited States
74=56EMORY UniversityUnited States
74=124University of YORKUnited Kingdom
76109University of ST ANDREWSUnited Kingdom
77=127PURDUE UniversityUnited States
77=88University of PITTSBURGHUnited States
79111University of MARYLANDUnited States
80=141University of SOUTHAMPTONUnited Kingdom
80=121University of LEEDSUnited Kingdom
8253VANDERBILT UniversityUnited States
8381University of GLASGOWUnited Kingdom
8490LEIDEN UniversityNetherlands
85=87University of VIENNAAustria
85=116FUDAN UniversityChina
85=60CASE WESTERN RESERVE UniversityUnited States
88176QUEEN'S UniversityCanada
8995UTRECHT UniversityNetherlands
90=99PENNSYLVANIA STATE UniversityUnited States
90=118TOKYO Institute of TechnologyJapan
92102RICE UniversityUnited States
93=181Université de MontréalCanada
93=54University of COPENHAGENDenmark
9548University of ROCHESTERUnited States
96170University of CALIFORNIA, DavisUnited States
97=145GEORGIA Institute of TechnologyUnited States
97=133University of ALBERTACanada
99141CARDIFF UniversityUnited Kingdom
100116University of HELSINKIFinland

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

Shhh! The biggest idea ever!



Charles Darwin had a big idea, arguably the biggest and best idea ever. And like all the best ideas it is beguilingly simple. In fact, it is so staggeringly elementary, so blindingly obvious, so amazingly ‘dud-duh why didn’t I think of that?’, that although others before him had had inklings of the truth, nobody thought to look for it in the right place. Darwin had 5 years to look for it; and he did so as the official naturalist onboard HMS Beagle - a sailing vessel that spent 5 years travelling the globe from Brazil to Tierra del Fuego - and from the Galapagos to the Malay Archipelago. When he arrived back in England Darwin sat on his idea for 20 years before finally telling the world about it. Why? Because he was scared. He knew it would change everything.

Darwin’s big idea is that of evolution by natural selection published in On the Origin of Species, that gave biology its guiding principle, a governing law that helps the rest make sense. Understanding its cold, beautiful logic is a must. If you want to understand life this is the place to start.

Natural selection's explanatory power is not just about life on this planet: it is the only theory so far suggested that could explain life on any planet. If life exists anywhere else in the universe then some version of evolution by natural selection will almost certainly turn out to underpin its existence. Darwin's theory works equally well no matter how strange and weird and wonderful that extraterrestrial life may be - and my tentative guess is that it will be weird beyond our wildest imaginings.

But what makes natural selection so special? A powerful idea assumes little to explain much. It does lots of explanatory 'heavy lifting', while expending little in the way of assumptions or postulations. It gives you plenty of bangs for your explanatory buck. Its Explanation Ratio - what it explains, divided by what it needs to assume in order to do the explaining - is enormous.

If any reader knows of any idea that has a larger explanation ratio than Darwin's, then I wanna hear it. Darwin's big idea explains all of life and its consequences, and that means everything that possesses more than minimal complexity – that includes you, and me, and the cat next door. It explains flowers and the bees that buzz about them. It explains mushrooms and HIV and athletes-foot-fungus. It even explains accountants. Now that’s what I call explaining! All this explaining is equal to the numerator of the explanation ratio, and it is huge.

Yet the denominator (the number at the bottom of the fraction) in the explanatory equation is spectacularly small and simple. The denominator is: natural selection, the non-random survival of genes in gene pools (to put it in neo-Darwinian terms rather than Darwin's own).

You can winnow Darwin's big idea down to a single sentence (again, this is a modern way of putting it, not quite Darwin's): 'Given sufficient time, the non-random survival of hereditary entities will generate complexity, diversity, beauty, and an illusion of design so persuasive that it is almost impossible to distinguish from deliberate intelligent design'. We don't need to add mutation to our assumptions. Mutational 'bucks' are provided free. 'Given sufficient time' is not a problem either - except for human minds struggling to take on board the terrifying magnitude of geological time. Look around you, the illusion of design is everywhere in the living world. So powerful is this illusion, so soft and comfortable and beguiling is the cotton wool over our eyes, that the spell of the illusion was only recently lifted 150 years ago today. Yes, 2009 is the 150th anniversary of Darwin's big idea - And our eyes are still accustomising to the brilliant new view.

It is mainly its power to simulate the illusion of design that makes Darwin's big idea seem threatening to a certain kind of mind. The same power constitutes the most formidable barrier to understanding it. People are naturally incredulous that anything so simple could explain so much. To a naive observer of the wondrous complexity of life, it just must have been intelligently designed.

But intelligent design is the polar opposite of a powerful theory: its explanation ratio is pathetically titchy. The numerator is the same as Darwin's: everything we know about life and its prodigious complexity. But the denominator, far from Darwin's slim and minimalist simplicity, is at least as big as the numerator itself: an unexplained intelligence, a ‘designer’ big enough to be capable of designing all the complexity we are trying to explain in the first place!

I'll end on a subtler legacy of Darwin's big idea. Darwin raises our consciousness to the sinewy power of science to explain the large and complex in terms of the small and simple. In biology we were fooled for centuries into thinking that extravagant complexity in nature needs an extravagantly complex explanation. Darwin triumphantly dispelled that delusion.

There remain deep questions in physics and cosmology that await their Darwin. Why are the laws of physics the way they are? Why are there laws at all? Why is there a universe at all? Why is there anything? Once again, the lure of 'design' is tempting. But we have the cautionary tale of Darwin before us. We've been through all that before. Darwin emboldens us - difficult as it is - to seek genuine explanations: explanations that explain more than they postulate. Darwin’s big idea is with us for good. There’s nothing quite like it to tear that wool from our eyes!


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Saturday, June 06, 2009

Coming soon...Life Trips

What is it like to be a spider threading a web or an eagle in flight? What is it like being a whale in depths or a pollen grain wafting above the earth? What is it like to be in love if you're a 200,000 year old human ancestor? Do you know love? Do you understand what it is? What is it like to be a drop of water recycling for a million years or a pebble burnished mercilessly by the tides? What is it like to be Homo erectus struggling to untangle the mystery of the moon? Is the moon far? If I climb that mountain can I touch it with my hands? What are these stars that dazzle me at night - are they fires from distant worlds? Where did she go, will I ever see her again? What is life? What is this? What is that? What is it all for?

Wednesday, June 03, 2009

L'art de BookWorming

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Panoramic Karakoramic Highway - Pakistan


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Crystal air views - misty morning dews - sleeping bag wet - slept all night - under starry canopy - meteor streaks venting - impossible things thought. Yawnings release me - tired muscles ache - i sleep & think of you - rustling warily - in my dream. Wake-up to - delicious ice cold - fresh mountain stream - breakfast of sip - of water only. Breakfast of water - and gulp of  morning air - i dream of - ice cold milk - drenched over cornflakes. A place like this - or cornflakes? I choose cornflakes - i hate my stomach - leave it behind - i wish i had. Mutinous sac of acid - spoiler of view - tormenter of me - causer of misery - wanter of cornflakes - which one's? Kelloggs!

Monday, June 01, 2009

Currently listening to... Album: 'Journal for Plague Lovers'

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Song no 9 :  Doors closing slowly

The shadow is the cross ok - judgement must be willing today
Silence is not sacrifice - crucifixion is the easy life

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[Video: Vagabond Productions (C)2009]



Song no 4 : This joke sport severed

This joke sport severed - I endeavoured
To find a place - where I became untethered

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[Video: Vagabond Productions (C)2009]



JOURNAL FOR PLAGUE LOVERS by 'The Manic street preachers' - press Reviews:

Q - 'Simply a phenomenal rock record' *****

Uncut - 'A brave compelling record, stands shoulder to shoulder with The Manics best' ****

Sunday Times Culture - 'Great riff follows great riff.  A triumphant album' CD OF THE WEEK *****

Mojo - 'A band aligning with its purest impulses - A triumph' *****

The Fly - 'The Manic Street Preachers have re established themselves as one of the most important bands of our generation' **** ½

Maxim's Album Of The Month - 'The Welsh legends have well and truly found their voice again - This is essential'

Attitude - 'Stands up on its own as an angry, violent, unique piece of art'

Kerrang! - 'This is a record that HAD to be made, and it's an essential buy' KKKK

Independent On Sunday - 'The album of 2009 hands down no contest'

Clash Magazine - 'The spirits have lifted, the future is clear, welcome back Manic Street Preachers' 10/10

Observer Music Monthly - 'Not just a dignified salute to an absent friend but a cracking album in its own right' *****

The Guardian - 'A passionate rock album that honours the past, yet is very much of the present' *****

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Friday, May 29, 2009

Eating The Sun


Here's what happened today. What really happened...


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Dawn broke first over the Pacific. Because the international dateline bisects the largest ocean that's where the dawn always breaks first - planting its first kiss over the Pacific and perhaps on the prows of a few container ships. Then the dawn made landfall in the north a few hours later, sweeping a fiery multi-hued arc over the icy tundra, and at the end of the world to the south, it broke like a wave crashing against the mountains of New Zealand. Soon, effortlessly, it glided westwards; filling the rice paddies of the Philippines and the depths of the South China Sea. It touched-down in Thailand on the faces of the drivers sleeping in their tuk tuks. And everytime the sunlight hit something green - something truly green, not something painted green or dyed green: something with greenness that grew - the most amazing miracle on the planet began - anew

When the light of dawn shone on the greenness, the greenness smiled and welcomed it, and comprehended it, and put it to use. The greenness thrived and drank, nay gobbled up the dawn. The greenness was chlorophyll, a pigment. It was arranged such that the sunlight's energy bounced from one chlorophyll to the next like a frog across lily pads before reaching the subtle trap at the centre, the three billion year old trap where the light of the sun becomes the stuff of the earth. The stuff of life, the stuff of frogs, the stuff of you and me - even the stuff of love (if you want to stretch the metaphor to breaking point). As the trap's jaws snapped shut on the sunlight, the spring that powered those jaws pulled electrons from a nearby water molecule, breaking it up into hydrogen and oxygen. The hydrogen was used along with the stream of electrons to turn carbon dioxide into organic matter. The oxygen was discarded as waste into the air to be breathed in by us. In every plant reached by the dawn this extraordinary three billion year old mechanism came into life millions of times over. The carbon dioxide to which these electrons were channelled was turned first into sugar and then all sorts of other molecules. Some of these were used to thicken the plant stems, others to lengthen the leaves, to enrich the soil and to colour the flowers still held tight in their buds. Light made life: that is what photosynthesis means.

If the light was to stop, on this day or any other, so would everything you care about. It has happened before. The dawn stopped in the time of the dinosaurs ending their reign. It can happen again. The manufacture of life from light is not the only thing going on as our dawn sweeps over Asia. For every leaf that greets the dawn there's an ant that eyes the leaf; for the growing grass there are hungry calves, and for the fattening calves there are hungry men; for the sugar-swollen root there's a sugar-sucking fungus. For growth there's decay. For life, there is death. By the time the dawn has reached America, most of the people on the earth have woken and gone to work; some in the far east have retired for the night. During their working day, almost all of those who can see will have seen something green. In built up London (My World) I can count well over five hundred trees from my trip to Canary Wharf. We might not give a conscious thought to the omnipresent green, but at some level we will enjoy it. We will flock to it in parks on summer days and relax under its cool sun-dappled shade. The greenness of life is so important to us that our eyes are tuned to discriminate among its various hues more precisely than the shades of any other colour. The green, we know without thinking, is good.

But we don't just enjoy seeing the green. It shapes the possibilities of our lives. More than two billion of us will have tended to the eaters of the sun in some way today. We will have hoed the soil for them, fed the sun eaters fertilizer, cared for them, kept em warm, kept them watered. We will have picked their fruits, dug up their roots, fed them to our livestock and ourselves. We will have made their carcasses into fabrics and furniture and firewood. We will have tended to some of them for their beauty and for their smell. It is not We who rule the world. They do: the sun eaters are our true masters. How little we know it.

And even if we ignore these plants, these eaters of the sun completely, by locking ourselves away in concrete-steel jungles, we will still rely on yesterday's sun eaters. Everyday we burn thirty million tonnes of fossil fuel to generate our electricity and drive our cars and warm our homes. And all that power and warmth comes from sunlight eaten long ago - energy trapped in coal and oil. This planet is covered not in dust, or lava, or ice like the other lifeless planets in the solar system. It is covered in tiny photosynthetic machines, vibrant whirring electron transport chains embedded in membranes, that trap the sun and eat it. This is the most wonderful trick ever invented. And it was invented soon after life first emerged on earth. These machines are more numerous than the sands of the sea or the stars of the sky. But they are also short lived. The hard work of taking light and funnelling it into chemical reactions takes its toll on their bodies and mechanisms. Plants spend a significant amount of energy keeping their photosynthetic machinery in good repair, and in winter, when light levels drop, the factories in which photosynthesis takes place (the leaves) are no longer worth the repair bill and so are shed in their trillions. Cost cutting. You trample over these dead crispy factories in autumn. But the idea behind the machines, the idea written down in their DNA and broken out fresh each spring, is not so fragile. It is always there, the idea lives on. Bodies perish, but the idea and the design live forever.

Who would have thought this universe would give birth to creatures green and seemingly simple. Who would have thought life could be so creative. Who would have thought the nuclear-powered sun could be harnessed and subdued. Look! they are all around you. Do you not see? Pay a little more attention to these greens. Our bodies may be made of stardust but our lives are powered by starlight eaten by the sun eaters.

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Friday, May 15, 2009

The Origin of Life (part III)



If there can be said to exist a single formula; like the age-old secret of alchemists, a formula that makes all of life possible, then it is the following:

C02 + H2O  ---------  C6H12O6 + O2

Carbon dioxide + Water -------- Glucose (organic molecule) + Oxygen

It doesn’t look like much does it? It's rather unimpressive isn't it? How can such a simple formula hold the key to life? But it does! It makes you feel like a god just knowing it. A god surveying creation before him (or her). But enough of the purple prose. Time for some real science. But before we begin: A plea. I implore you to be patient. The science that follows will be tricky. I have tried my best to strip away any superfluousness, any excess fat, to simplify, to distill, so that what remains is the essence. But to truly understand will require a wee effort on your part. But the rewards; if I may be so bold to say, will be worth it. At the end of it all, if I can make you feel like a genius, if I can make you feel like a crazy lord of time surveying his dominion, than I will have succeeded. Let there be light!

We've already discussed that plants carry out the above reaction by harnessing solar energy during photosynthesis. We mentioned that photosynthesis is a hugely complex process involving numerous enzymes, proteins, electron carriers and an intricate membrane network. To reiterate: the first life on earth could not possibly have photosynthesised. Photosynthesis evolved much later. So, the question remains: How did the first life combine hydrogen with carbon dioxide to build the organic molecules necessary for it to exist?

I hinted that the ocean floor holds the key. Deep down below the surface; projecting from the sea bed like chimneys are hot water vents. These are like fissures or pimples on the earth’s skin where newly exposed rock, from deep within the bowels of the earth, reacts with sea water. It must be understood that water doesn’t just mix and percolate with the rock; it chemically reacts with it. The amount of water bound chemically to the rock in this way is astonishing. It is believed that it is equivalent to the entire volume of water in the oceans. As the sea floor expands from the movements of plate tectonics; these rocks which contain bound water, are ultimately plunged beneath a colliding plate. In what is known in geological parlance as a subduction zone.


Eventually, on the other side of the conveyor belt that powers the movement of the continents these rocks reach the surface of the sea bed. This is where the vents come in. The sea water that was once bound with the rocks is released again through the vents; but not as water (H2O) but as bubbling hydrogen gas.

At the turn of the millennium, scientists aboard the submersible Atlantis stumbled across just one of these vent systems spewing forth hydrogen gas. This vent system was nicknamed the 'lost city' and it had delicate finger like projections made of carbonate that reached up into the inky blackness. These projections gave the lost city a Gothic church look.


The projecting fingers themselves are porous, containing a maze of microscopic compartments like a bee hive. The compartments are 1/12mm in diameter (the same size as an average cell) and are teeming with life. The compartments are the home to colonies of industrious bacteria. The bacteria themselves provide the food source for other larger organisms that thrive in the vents. They are the 'producers' in this underwater food chain but the the key thing is that the entire ecosystem is supported by the reaction of hydrogen gas (H2) with carbon dioxide (CO2). Whereas on the surface this reaction has an initial energy requiring step in which hydrogen first has to be torn from water, but here, the reaction requires no such initial stage. Raw hydrogen bubbling from the ground as a gas is a rare gift on our planet, and life is normally obliged to seek out occult supplies, bound in tight molecular grip to other atoms, as in water or hydrogen sulphide. The reaction occurs painfully slowly, but from the view of thermodynamics it is a free lunch. In fact is is better then a free lunch. You see, not only does the reaction of hydrogen and carbon dioxide occur spontaneously but it also releases energy as a result - energy that can be used to power other reactions. It's like walking into a restaurant, having a meal, and then being paid for it! - the ultimate free lunch. It takes such a free lunch to get life going on a planet. These vents fit the bill as a hatchery for life on earth. They generate organic molecules. They have porous compartments, which can concentrate any organic molecules formed, making the assembly of polymers (long chained molecules) like RNA (Ribonucleic acid - simpler cousin of the more famous Deoxyribonucleic acid DNA). The vents are long lived; the lost city itself has been venting for at least 40,000 years. The walls of the vents contain iron-sulphur minerals which can act as catalysts to speed up and promote the reactions further.

But I hear the whispers of naysayers. I know what you're thinking: such vents are all very well, but how did life progress from such natural reactors to the complex, marvelous tapestry of invention and ingenuity that we see around us? The answer, of course, is unknown but there are clues within all of us. A clue to the past. Yes, within each of us is a 'smoking gun', an ancient remnant of the origin of life itself. All life on earth without exception has within it a set of deeply conserved biochemical reactions, like a living fossil, but not a fossil of bones, nay a fossil of biochemistry. The same reactions that occured at the dawn of life, also occur in the underwater vents and also occur inside your body! Amazing huh? From Bacteria to Penguin. From woolly Mammoth to Chimpanzee we all contain a clue to our primordial past. Don't believe me? I'll show you. We now turn to these for the next step in our wonderful story.

All life on earth shares certain qualities. All living things are composed of cells (with the exception of viruses). All cells in all living things on earth have genes made of DNA; all DNA codes for proteins by means of a universal genetic code. All living things also share the same energy currency, known as ATP. This chemical is like a £10 note, used to 'pay' for all kinds of work that needs to be done to keep life alive. We can infer that all living things inherited these qualities from the first remote common ancestor. All life today also shares a common core of biochemical reactions, at the heart of which is a little cycle of reactions that is the bane of many a biochemistry student: the Krebs cycle! The Krebs cycle occupies hallowed ground in biochemistry - but for me it was something to be rote learned for exams and then quietly forgotten. Yet, within this ancient and dusty cycle of reactions lies the answer to the meaning of life - or, if not that, then at least how it got started!



(The Krebs Cycle - a pain in the ass for all biochemistry students)

I don’t expect you to understand the details. The main things to take are:

  • The main purpose of the Krebs cycle is respiration i.e. to generate energy
  • At the top you can see a chemical called Pyruvate which is shunted into our cycle
  • ATP (the cellular currency of energy) is generated as the wheel turns. The ATP is then used to power life.
  • Carbon dioxide and water are produced as waste products of this cycle.

What has any of this got to do with anything you're wondering? Let me explain. At the top of the cycle is a chemical called Pyruvate. Where does Pyruvate come from?



Don't worry about the details (!). All you need to do is look at the top left and read out the name of the first chemical you see...exactly, glucose. And the last chemical at the bottom...pyruvate.

So glucose is absorbed into the body and is converted into Pyruvate via the above series of reactions. Pyruvate in turn is shunted into the Krebs cycle thereby generating energy and releasing carbon dioxide and water as waste products. This is your basic respiration you learnt at school. But wait a minute! Isn’t this the opposite of the reaction we want? Aren’t we trying to combine carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H20) to make glucose? Aren't these cycle of reactions breaking down glucose to generate C02 and H20. Yes, true but if you look at the cycle again you'll see double arrows between the reactants. This means that the Krebs cycle is reversible. It can run backwards.

Here is a simple version of the cycle to explain my point:




Glucose enters at the top to be broken down into water, carbon dioxide and ATP. If we run it in reverse we can combine water and carbon dioxide, and with the input of some energy, make glucose!

And he said: 'Let there be life, and life sprawled forth from the vents'

Normally the Krebs cycle is used in respiration to break down glucose. But it can also run in reverse to make glucose and other organic molecules. The reversal of this cycle is common in primitive bacteria - especially those found living in hydrothermal vents. It is clearly a primitive way of converting carbon dioxide and water into the building blocks of life. The other amazing thing about the cycle is that it can spin of its own accord. It is thermodynamically stable. In other words it was not invented by living things, it is chemistry that already existed before life emerged. Life simply took the naturally occurring reactions occurring in the ocean vents and made them its own. When life emerged it 'conducted' a score that already existed! Once the Krebs cycle got spinning, side reactions would have been inevitable, giving amino acids and proteins. How much of the core metabolism of life on earth arose spontaneously, and how much is a later product of genes and proteins is an interesting question and quite beyond the scope of this post. But I would hazard a guess that if you were to set up the Krebs cycle in a test tube, give it a spark of energy, and a wollop of inspiration, a whole bunch of proteins and nucleic acids would be synthesised spontaneously. It is a thermodynamic inevitability.

This paints an extraordinary portrait of the first life on earth - our first ancestor. She wasn't some free living, pulsating, moving, throbbing cell but a rocky labyrinth of mineral cells, lined with catalytic walls of iron, sulphur and nickel. The first life was a porous rock that generated complex molecules and energy right up to the formation of proteins and DNA itself. If this doesn’t shake you and evaporate the anaesthetic of familiarity that hovers above you in your daily life, then I don’t know what will. Do you feel like a genius now?

We now turn to DNA and cells. How did they arise from this queer and wonderful ancestor of ours. This rocky labyrinth of mineral cells...


Open your eyes (Snow patrol)

Saturday, May 09, 2009

The Origin of Life (part II)


What was it about the early earth that first breathed life into lifeless matter? Are we unique, exceedingly rare, or was our planet but one in a million hatcheries scattered across the universe? These are questions to ponder, simmer and sin over. These are questions to discuss with good friends over good wine over good tasty dead life-forms in a good restaurant. These are questions to which we, for the first time in our history, now have sensible answers to. No longer is it deemed necessary, or even respectable, to invoke fantastical gods, talismans, shamens, and fairy tales for answers. We have a wonderful tool at our disposal -  a tool the ancients lacked, a tool which today is taught in all good schools throughout the world. A tool called chemistry.



The Origin of Life, as we shall see is a chemical problem. True, classroom chemistry, as taught today by boring dusty old teachers in dilapidated damp-cold laboratories, can extinguish (like blowing out a candle) the curiosity of many a bright and promising student. Students are told to memorise staid formulas, molarities and learn the Periodic Table - by rote. Hardly, an exciting endeavour to entice the curious amongst us into a world of science. But there are a few dedicated souls amongst us who do devote their lives to science, who look beyond the formulas and staid equations. Who breathe new life into the equations. Don't worry, I won't be throwing equations at you, but I will expect you to understand and appreciate the one's I do fling in your general direction.

But first before we begin, a little warning. We can never know for sure how life really started on earth. Even if we succeed in producing bacteria that crawl out of a test tube from a swirling soup of chemicals, we will never know if that is how life actually started on our planet. All we can say is that such things are possible. The quest for the Origin of Life is not about answers to what happened at a particular moment in the year 3,851 million BC, but it is a quest for the general rules that must govern the emergence of any life, anywhere in the universe, and especially on our planet, the only example we know of where life exists. I believe the rules that apply to our planet also apply to life elsewhere - wherever it may be found in the universe. The story we’ll trace is almost certainly not correct in every detail, but it is broadly accurate, and as we’ll see, perhaps almost inevitable once certain conditions are met. It is a story of chemistry and the ancient past. It is a story of many teenage years spent in angst mulling over lifes mysteries. It is a story of Life, the Universe and Everything. It is also very exciting. I'm excited. So let's begin!

There is a fundamental rule that governs all life on earth. All living things need to generate energy in order to build bodies and survive. Without energy life reverts back to the state of lifeless inanimate matter from whence it came. Most creatures on earth are consumers and get their energy from other living things - by eating them. Every time you eat a chicken drumstick a la KFC style, you are absorbing the energy stored by the chicken in its flesh. Where did the chicken gets its energy from? From seeds. It spent hours and hours converting seeds into chicken flesh. A chicken is a fascinating device. Through its mouth enter the seeds, and down its oesophagus they go into its tummy. Eventually via a complex cogwheel  of reactions called 'respiration' these seeds are converted  into tasty yummy chicken flesh. The chicken converts the seeds into feathers too, and muscles, and guts, and feet, and a brain and nervous system (albeit a very small one). And the seeds? Where did they get their energy from? Or to pose the question in another way: where does the energy trapped inside all living things ultimately come from? Answer: the sun. It is the green plants and other so called 'producers' that harvest the energy in the sun to build organic carbon molecules with which to build bodies. The equation is that of photosynthesis:

6 CO2 + 6 H2gives C6H12O6+ 6 O2

carbon dioxide + water ------ (energy from the sun absorbed by leaves) = glucose + oxygen

Let's stop and think what is happening here. Plants are effectively stripping away the hydrogen atoms in water, and then recombining them with the carbon and oxygen atoms in carbon dioxide to build glucose. From glucose they then make bodies and power their myriad functions (this is a little simplistic but it is essentially what is happening). The energy to power the combination of hydrogen with carbon dioxide comes from sunlight. The sunlight is trapped by the leaves by the green pigment chlorophyll.

The first life on earth had to be a producer. It couldn't have been a consumer; i.e. it couldn't have fed on other life, because there was no other life to feed on. At first the only producers that scientists knew of were green plants and photosynthetic bacteria. But this painted a paradox. You see the problem is that photosynthesis is a wonderful process. In fact it is too wonderful! And it is wonderful precisely because it is very efficient and very complicated (as any 1st year biochemistry student will attest to) - and therein lies the problem. It requires organelles (tiny spherical green bodies) inside cells called chloroplasts with an origami network of twisted internal membranes. It is inside chloroplasts that the reactions of photosynthesis take place and it is is an extremely complex biochemical process. It involves a chain of protein molecules embedded in the membranes. It involves a vast array of protein catalysts called enzymes to help and control these reactions. It requires a green pigment called chlorophyll to trap the light, and it requires molecules to shuttle electrons along the complexes at break neck speed. In short photosynthesis as we know it is far far too complicated to have arisen in the first life. It is way too complicated. See image below:



(Phosynthesis is far too complicated to have arisen in the first life forms)

The first life that arose, therefore had to be, by definition, very simple. It would have had to generate energy from a very simple process not involving enzymes and proteins and membranes. In short it couldn't have photosynthesised. So how did it generate it's energy? And more importantly: what did it look like? The answer as you'll see is a strange and wonderful one. In fact, the first life probably did not look like life as we understand it. It looked almost alien. To find it we must travel deep down into the ocean depths...far down, on the sea bed where strange things lurk...

It was in the early 1970s when the first pieces of the jigsaw puzzle were found. We've been putting them together ever since. The first clues to an answer to the origin of life came in the early 1970s, when rising plumes of hot water were noticed along the Galapagos Rift, not far from the Galapagos Islands. Little happened for a few years and then in 1977 a submarine descended to the rift seeking the source of the hot plume of water. What it found were hydrothermal vents; huge 80 metre tall chimneys at the bottom of the ocean venting black smoke and hot water into the cold salty sea water. What surprised everyone even more was the existence of giant tube worms, some of them eight feet long, mixed with clams and mussels, all living off the heat and minerals from the deep dark undersea vents many miles below the waters surface. The sheer abundance of life down below was astonishing; a veritable cornucopia of life approaching the exuberance of rainforest's and coral reefs; and all powered by the energy from the exhalations of underwater vents rather then sunlight. You see sunlight cannot penetrate these murky depths. These vents soon acquired the name ‘black smokers’ and since then over 200 ‘fields’ of black smokers; tottering as high as skyscrapers, have been found over the earths ridges, in the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans. But this is not smoke as we know it. The black stuff consists of broiling metal sulphides, hydrogen gas, ammonia, all seeping up from within the earth’s magma, reaching temperatures of 400 degrees centigrade in the crushing pressures of the ocean. The chimneys themselves are composed of sulphurous minerals, like iron pyrites, which settle out from the black smoke and amass as thick deposits over wide areas.


('black smokers' - deep sea hydrothermal vents - did life begin here?)

This bizarre and alien world seems like a vision of Hell itself and comes replete with hell fire, brimstone and the foul reek of hydrogen sulphide gas. And what lives in these conditions? Life. Large 8 foot worms with no mouths and no anuses, and eyeless shrimps swarming in countless multitudes on the ledges and cliffs below the smoking chimneys. Life
doesn’t just scrimp by and earn a living here; it positively thrives in these infernal conditions. It needs the hydrogen gas, hydrogen sulphide, and ammonia to survive! On the surface of our planet this stuff would be poisonous. But not here. How can life survive down here? What is going on?

The answer as we’ll see will tell us something about the Origins of Life itself.

Friday, May 01, 2009

The Origin of Life (part I)

Well actually I lied! Life didn't start with a tree...trees come much much later in our story. But before we begin our odyssey I have something to tell you. A little secret. I feel a little embarrassed telling you this. But the devil take it! You see, the reason I studied Biochemistry at university was because I wanted to discover...nothing other than...the origin of life! I know, I know, how childish! Unfortunately somewhere amidst the boring lectures on the Krebs cycle, glycolysis and gene transcription the question got lost and I became embroiled in the serious business of passing exams. It is sad how academic study, instead of becoming an exciting quest for new knowledge; an adventure into the unknown, can turn into a wearisome struggle to pass exams. But I am back with a vengeance! Oh yes! After a break of almost ten years. The good thing is that ten years is a long time in science. Entire world views can crumble and brand spanking new shiny edifices rise up in their place. The scientific landscape I see before me today is different to the one that existed when I was an undergraduate. Things have moved on - and in science that is always good.

Before we begin our journey to the Origin of Life we must first understand what it is we are trying to find the origin of. Or, put more bluntly: What exactly is life? Is it something that moves? something that grows? that eats? that reproduces? that breathes? that shits? Trees don't move yet they are living. Viruses don't breathe and they too are living. Flowers don't shit and they are definitely living. Is there a definition of life that encompasses all? Yes there is:

Life is something that can maintain a state of order via the expenditure of energy.

We are blobs of order in a chaotic universe. What is the difference between a bird and a mountain? (apart from the obvious). A bird is vastly vastly more complex than a mountain. It has intricate parts that work together to make it do 'birdy' things like fly, bob its head, eat, and make copies of itself in the form of baby birds. It looks as if it was designed. Nobody looks at a lump of rock and says: 'Hey, look at that! It must have been designed by someone' - but the same can't be said for birds, worms, insects and humans. Look at the different parts of a human - the muscles, the guts, the bones, the nervous system. Surely a human being couldn't have come about just like that? A human being has purpose written all over it. There is the famous story by William Paley about stumbling upon a watch in the heath. If you spotted a watch upon the heath it would be obvious it was designed by someone for a purpose - wouldn't it?

The complexity of the living world is crying out for an explanation. From bats to penguins - from flowers to bees - from spider webs to birds nests. Where did this complexity come from? Surely it was designed? By someone? For a purpose? Just like a car, a laptop, a TV. But living things are vastly more complex than any man made object. If you think that this bewildering complexity does not deserve an explanation than you've got issues. If you've never marvelled at the natural world and thought: 'Hey, wait a minute! Where did it come from?' - if you've never done that than you need to sort out your priorities and start getting down to some serious thinking. In short: you need to get a life!

But enough philistine bashing for now. I'll get plenty of chances to bash you later. There is another point I want to make: it is important to note beforehand, lest I furnish you with unrealistic notions, that we can never really know with certainty how life began. It was an event that occurred such a long time ago. 3.85 billion years is an unfathomably long time. Imagine the age of the earth can be represented on a 24 hour clock. The earth was formed 4.5 billion years ago at 12 midnight. Life emerged at 4am in the morning and remained single-cell bacteria like until 8pm the following evening. After 8pm in our 24 hour clock it became multi-celluler and grew bodies arms, legs, guts and heads. And humans? Humans appeared in the last second at 11:59 (59secs) (!). The fact that we can say anything about an event that occurred so long ago is astonishing in the least. But we can do more than that. We can make educated inferences, based on what we know about life today and in the past, about the kind of process that the origin of life was and had to be. We know it had to be a chemical process; because there was no biology at the time. Thanks to recent advances in gene technology, thermodynamics and the discovery of hitherto unknown branches of life - we can now say, with a high degree of confidence, how life is likely to have begun.

It's been a long time coming. Man has lived in a state of 'duh-duh I dunno' for far too long. It is about time the veil of ignorance was lifted and our minds opened to the weird and wonderful. So lets venture into the well of the long deep past. It is the year 3.85 billion BC. It has been 700 million years since the earth was formed out of a red hot ball of interstellar material. The oceans have cooled and land risen. The atmosphere is noxious with methane, ammonia and carbon dioxide. Something momentous is about to happen...the story begins deep in the chasms of the earths oceans, in the mid-ocean ridges, many miles down, where thanks to the forces of volcanism and plate tectonics, continents collide and slide beneath one another, creating earthquakes and raising mountains... weird and wonderful and wholly extraordinary conditions are being created. It is safe to say that life probably began on earth in an alien environment...

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Coming soon...The Origin of Life

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Set against the consuming blackness of space, the earth is a beguiling blue-green ball. Barely a handful of people have experienced the emotion of seeing the planet from space. Petty human squabbles over borders, oil and creed. Tiny everyday worries about life, love and money - all these whimsies vanish in the knowledge that this living, breathing, spinning marble surrounded by deep dark emptiness is our shared home. A home which we share with the most wonderful invention in the universe - wonderful, splendid, beautiful life.

How did it begin?

There was a time, many many years ago when night followed day swiftly. When the planet spun madly on its axis and a day was 5-6 hours long. A time when the moon hung heavy in the sky, far closer, and far bigger, than it is today. A time when stars rarely shone through the dull red envelope of the atmosphere. Humans could not survive then, no oxygen - we would have asphyxiated. Our eyes would have bulged our lungs would have struggled to find something to breathe. Yet 3,800 million years ago something momentous happened. This is the story of that high water mark event. This is the story of that showpiece extravaganza. This is the story of us and who we are. This is the story of life itself...everything else fades in comparison. Without understanding this you understand nothing. Without knowing this all of literature, all of poetry, all that has ever been said lacks context. This is the story of the Origin Of Life. Come and join me and I will take you on the finest adventure that Life has to offer.

It starts, well it starts like most great adventures stories, simply. It starts with a tree...


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Sunday, April 26, 2009

The railway bazaar (revisited)

Diary folio A-1

Earlier we had kissed to a window-framed backdrop of rutted origami fields cropped by belching cows, and as our lips parted, I had opened my eyes. It was then that she had laughed.
'Why are you laughing?'
'Because silly…you kiss with your eyes shut'. Her eyes were shiny with a moist film. Her mouth was clapped tight forcing it into a twisted smile. She was trying desperately not to laugh.
'I've never known a man who kisses with his eyes shut' she said - she of a thousand lovers.
I looked on embarrassed. Did I really kiss with my eyes shut? I was suddenly engrossed in a picture of my own sillyness. To my surprise and horror my cheeks had begun to sprout a blush. I tried to think of something else to get the colour to fade lest she noticed. I thought of something to say but knew not what. I concentrated on the first irrelevent thing that came to mind - A sultry tale from a thousand and one nights! This is not helping. I said nothing, pursed my lips and continued to stare her out (our faces were almost touching). She saw the ripening whorls of rose red colour form on my cheeks and burst out in laughter. Unable to contain herself any longer she raised her hand to her mouth in a gesture of apology. I leaned back, twisted my mouth in a metallic frown, dug a deep furrow in my forehead and sulked. I was upset; or at least feigned to be...

Saturday, April 25, 2009

The railway bazaar (revisited)

Forward

The sun hung low like a bloody bruised orange tearing long wreathe like shadows into the flatscapes. It was so low that the light from the sun flooded the carriage in slanting beams whose edges were marked with dancing eddies. The train tottled along in nervous agitation sending the dust motes into ever spiralling orbits. The mood was morbidly portentous; strange forces were a-foot in the country threatening the placid calmness of my thoughts. Opposite me, above her head, warm air currents were stirring friskily in the heated square patch of sun reflection. The smell of mellow cow dung entered through the open windows and wrestled with the smell of passengers curry and fish dinners. It was dinner time in the train. I felt instantly better. I had purchased my dinner from a kiosk at the previous station. It had been handed to me by a skinny dark-skinned Tamil; skillfully wrapped in 'India Times' newspaper print. As I opened the package, the whiff caught me by surprise and I realised the oil had forced the newspaper print to emboss itself onto my fish dinner. 'Terror in Karnataka' ran the headline along the scaly back of my fish. Hence the morbid mood. I stabbed the fish with a rudimentary tooth pick and saw its eyes watching me forlornly. I gouged them out angrily with the tooth-pick (nobody likes to be stared at by their dinner). I separated the bones carefully from the white juicy flesh which I then moulded into a ball with my fingers and sponged with the rice. I was copying the other diners. I pushed the whole messy concoction into my dry mouth. It was saucy and a spicy-hot trickle ran down the side of my lips, then along the inside of my arm and unto my crotch between my legs. She sat opposite -  laughing. I gave her a wounded lion look. She snarled back with her eyes glowing fiercly; showing her perfect teeth and perfect smile - that seemed for moment to be studded with a million diamonds. I was in love with that smile. God! I was in love with a lioness...

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Escape from thyself


It is Saturday morning and I am in a charmingly philosophical mood. The freshly ground coffee nesting warmly in the pot to my right has little bubbles on the surface like fish eggs and when I raise the cup to my mouth I notice that the bubbles contain rainbows. I sip the brew...Ahh rich aroma; Ethiopia crashes through the sensory divide and invades my private space. Though I am clearly not in Ethiopia but London, Stoke Newington - the greatest place in the whole Universe. Oh, yes I have been to the stars on the back of aching mahogany beams.

Back on Earth the waitress shuffles busily to my left leaving a trail of sweet perfume and broken hearts in her wake. I look at her and oddly sadistic thoughts flutter into view - thoughts of the sexual things I'd like to do to her behind the counter and on the shiny table tops. Naughty sexual things that I can't describe here as this blog is rated PG. I swipe the thoughts clear; like one swipes a truculent layer of grime off a window pane, and continue with my work. But I am finding it difficult to concentrate.

Presently a man walks in, a Turkish man, and sits down. He is wearing a badly fitting suit jacket with enormous lapels and not-very-shiny brass buttons. He places his elbows self-consciously on the table and looks around wide-eyed, his gaze scanning the clientele and stopping for longer than is necessary on some of the prettier faces. The waitress comes over to take his order. He orders in a series of low guttural barks that betray his lowly uncouth origins. 'I am Man. I want food'. He continues to stare at some of the prettier faces; staring for longer than necessary. How long should a man stare at a woman not to make her feel uncomfortable? I think about 7/10th's of a second is long enough to acknowledge her existence. Anything longer betrays a keen healthy interest. 4 seconds or more and we are looking at unhealthy sexual interest that borders on psychotic disturbances in the frontal lobe area of the brain. It is 20 seconds and the man is still staring - at the same woman.

Oddly enough (or maybe not oddly enough) the reaction of the female in such cases will depend on her perceptions of the man. Is he well dressed? Does he appear as a gentlemen? Well to do? How is he groomed? His mannerisms? Are they coarse and slovenly or urbane and refined? What are his shoes like? His eyes, how deep are his eyes - can you see straight though them all the way through the emptiness or are they impenetrable and how close are they to his nose? It's funny how you can read someone within a few seconds of having seen them. A useful device in the small tribal bands in which we evolved. Women are much better judges of pseudo-psychotic-sexual tendencies - for obvious reasons. The woman shuffles uncomfortably under the murky gaze of the sexual predator. Is he on the prowl? Finally she gets up to go to the loo. Yet the man shifts his gaze not an iota. What is he looking at? An empty chair? Oh! The television! He is looking at the television positioned to the right of the woman and my field of view made me think he was looking at her...oh well. I chuckle to myself and think of something to write.

The waitress returns and I order another pot of special brew. I do come here often and she knows me by face and we do chat occasionally in between the sound of clinking china and wooshing 15Bar pressure espresso machine. I can't quite recall what we talk about, all sorts of pointless stuff, but just to see her smile at a little joke of mine is bliss. I imagine seating her, with legs akimbo, between the knobs of the coffee machine, and making love to her whilst the coffee beans swivel about in the crusher and the milk frother for the cappuccinos reaches bursting point...and starts dripping all over the counter.

Oh God.That's disgusting...

___

Monday, April 13, 2009

Coming soon...Tierra Del Fuego

Magellan named it 'Tierra Del Fuego' because of the many campfires he saw dotted along its shores. Fed by continuous Antarctic winds the sea around Cape Horn bubbles and spits in an angry foamy morass. This is one of the harshest places on earth. This is the end of the world. I will go there. I can't help it - Ants in my pants. What me? Never!

Ihaveanitchyfeelinginmybum.com

'Among the scenes which are deeply impressed on my mind, none exceed in sublimity the primeval forests undefaced by the hand of man; whether those of Brazil, where the powers of Life are predominant, or those of Tierra del Fuego, where Death and Decay prevail. Both are temples filled with the varied productions of the God of Nature: no one can stand in these solitudes unmoved, and not feel that there is more in man than the mere breath of his body'

(Journal 'Voyage around the world' 1839)






Saturday, April 11, 2009

Picture perfect

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Food for thought

When did man become truly modern? Is there a seminal moment in our history when we can say 'this is the moment when we became modern'. I believe there is. It is the moment when man (and woman) strolled down the long supermarket aisles and picked strawberries. But this is no ordinary strawberry picking. Oh no, our ancestors may have delighted in the occasional handful of berries found in the bush in summer, viewing them as the gifts from a munificent creator, but we became modern when we gave up waiting for sporadic and capricious gifts from above and instead sought immediate and year round strawberries - in the supermarket. Walk down any supermarket today at any time of the year and you will find strawberries. They journey from Israel in midwinter, from Morocco in February, from Spain in spring, from Holland in early summer, from England in August and from San Diego between September till Christmas. All year round strawberries. No longer do we allow the tilt of the earths axis to decide what we can or cannot eat. Of course strawberries are just one example of our emancipation from the fetters of seasons and climate. Thanks to the genius of logistical science the seasons no longer exist - when it comes to food anyway. But there is, for me, a worrying side affect of our new-fangled modernity.

If you had lived 200 years ago the chances are you would know where your food came from. You would be intimately connected with its providence. Your bread no doubt would have been freshly baked by Mr Crumpet the baker. The cheese you ate would come from the Cheddar farms in Wiltshire. Your beef stew courtesy of the cattle belonging to ole farmer Henry and his wise chickens and nagging missus. Strawberries (only available in July, August) from the fields of East Sussex. Fish from the burgeoning fisheries of the North Sea. The handful of exotic items you consumed would have come from suitably exotic places: tea from Darjeeling and Ceylon, pepper and nutmeg from the Spice Islands of Banda off the coast of Indonesia, coffee from Arabia, wine from Bordeaux and if you were wealthy, Caviar from Sturgeon eggs caught in the freezing arctic waters of the Russian empire.

And today? Today the average supermarket has 20,000 produce. You'd be lucky if you knew where half-a-dozen of these came from. Let's take Tuna for example. Your Tuna comes from the Indian ocean waters off the Maldives. There it is caught by illiterate skinny Indians, hauled out of the water impaled on huge hooks and weighing 50kg's, clubbed to death until the water on deck turns red, lungs and bladders removed, gutted, sliced and diced into cubes and processed in factories in the Maldives. There they are packaged in Sainsbury's own brand plastic wrap, loaded into the cargo section of a Boeing 747 under aisle seats 34-45 headed for England. Finally, it is taken to the central processing warehouse near Birmingham from where great articulated lorries carry your Tuna steaks into the night, to every corner of the British Isles while you sleep, to your local Sainsbury's store. All within 48 hours. 48 hours ago that Tuna was happily swimming away in the warm blue waters of the Indian ocean...now it is seal-wrapped in the 'fish and seafood section' of a Sainsbury's in leaden and cold skied Middlesex. Welcome to modern life.

So what is my point? Why am I describing to you this wonderfully complex feat of logistics? Do you not see? We, in the West, no longer have any idea where our food comes from and how it got here. We cannot even begin to contemplate the human story that unfolds like a comic strip behind the food that finds itself on our plates. But most importantly of all, and this is the point I am driving at, we have lost control. We assume the food will always be there. We assume there will always be bread and milk and eggs in the supermarket in the morning. We have traded bewildering choice for control.  But what if things were to break down? What if the logistics system that brings our food to us, from all over the globe, collapsed? - from a major catastrophe perhaps: war, natural disaster, financial meltdown, alien invasion, nuclear holocaust. Would we starve? Would we Londoner's be reduced to nibbling away at tree barks or foraging for scraps of edible plant matter in Hyde Park?

You have no idea how precarious your existence is. Your entire lives are dependent on the workings of electronic machines, embedded in walls, handing out wads of paper - for the correct password. The card swiping machine in your local supermarket stands between you and your morning croissant and newspaper. The bank clerk stands between the crediting of your salary to your bank account and pecuniary. The delivery of that croissant depends on an army of human robot workers; most of whom are miserable and feel they are nothing but part of a soulless logistical network - which they are. And the sublime irony of modern life? For choice, for selection, for bewildering variety - we gave up control and freedom and have subjugated an army of humans to drudgery and inertness.

Contrast this with the peoples living in the Hunza valley in northern Pakistan. Yes, there choices are limited. Yes, they don't have thirty different breakfast cereals to choose from.Yes, they rarely eat Tuna. Yet, they don't have to suffer the ignominies of standing in front of a cheese counter trying to make an impossible decision.  They are the few people left who know where their rice, bread and corn came from. The rice grows in fields in the Punjab and the wheat and corn they grow themselves on terraced fields. The pears and peaches they grab off the trees and as for Coca Cola and Sprite - who needs such calorie-laden americanisms when you have tea and fresh sparkling mountain mineral water! And most importantly of all, they don't live lives of mindless drudgery.

But does it not scare you? To know that you no longer have control over basic things like your food source? That your entire life is dependent on the efficient workings of banks, ATM's, logistics, crude oil, electricity, gas, share prices, and political stability in the Maldives. Politican instability in Maldives = no Tuna. Welcome to the modern world. I hope this has been food for thought.

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Sunday, April 05, 2009

To leave one must first arrive...

'To leave one must first arrive
To arrive one first has to die
Flap those wings and cry:
What dost seeks is nigh'

...so says the peregrinating philosopher...mulching on 'Khat' leaves in the Ethiopian Highlands. But first I must apologise for a digression:

Khat also known as qatqaatquatgatjaadchatchad, is a flowering plant native to tropical East Africa and the Arabian Peninsula. Khat contains the alkaloid called cathinone, an amphetamine-like stimulant which is said to cause excitement, loss of appetite and euphoria.

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Allow me to whisper something in your ear: 'Khat is good'. There is an alaborate ceremony for its consumption. You lay upon the sand a cloth to sit upon cross-legged and in a circle. The Khat leaves arrive, preferably fresh and not older than two days, and you strip the stems and proceed to thrust them into your mouth...chewing vigorously - like a goat.  Like a bunch of stupid goats you sit there mulching and ruminating until the base of your mouth goes numb, until your tongue has lost all power of brain dependent movement - so what you utter in that Khat induced haze has nothing to do with what you wanted to say. But nevermind, your listeners too have lost the power of hearing and seem to have vanished out of your field of view - you remember what it is you wanted to say. But don't worry your train of thoughts will get lost again. So what was it you wanted to say? Oh yes. Here we go:

The best bit about Addis Ababa is getting out. But first you must get in. As the aeroplane sat on the tarmac I caught a glimpse of the terminal building from the spy-hole of the plane: industrial chic. That was my first impression. Long before the designers of Canary Wharf underground station unveiled their version of industrial chic; a similar, albeit unintentional design experiment had already taken place in Addis Ababa. It was King Menelik who had ordered the construction of a new fangled city. A capital city befitting a modern capital age. Like Albert Speer before him, and his right hand man; Alfred Ilg, plans were drawn to construct a metropolis to wow the visiting delegates. Oh no matter if half the population is on the brink of starvation; this is theatre – this is make-believe - wool over the eyes diplomacy. I have visited many capital cities and the following maxim generally holds true: The more pretentious the capital city the greater the poverty

Oh yes, a seething GutterStink of BuZZingHuman frailty and weakness. I longed for the Ethiopian highlands. But, like most capital cities, I had to arrive before I could leave. Arriving in Africa is like being born again. Recast from the womb that begot you. Instinct tells you to suck from the teat of the familiar. So I latch onto a group of touring Westerners who, after a while of friendly banter, start wondering who I am. So there is nothing to do but head off on my own and find a hotel: preferably a nice safe looking hotel - not too expensive, neatly laid towels, soap and toiletry packs, complimentary tea and coffee sachets, and cable TV with frosty picture. No that's not my style at all. I was joking! I look out of the dust covered window of my grimey hovel of a room that cost me the better part of a fiver for board and breakfast. A couple of syringes greet me in the toilet bowl: Beggar women with band of straggling kids shuffles along outside the window. Same old story. Poverty can be such a cliche. I close the curtains and lie down on the bed and stare at the ceiling. It has cracks in it. I imagine they are ancient waterways now dried, rivuletting through parched and scrawny bush. 'Afar' – that is where it all began. In fact it is from Addis Ababa that humans migrated around the world. I am merely coming back...albeit after a gap of a million years or so. I sigh. It's a long dusty trailing sigh pregnant with history and the burden of knowledge. Do I want to do this? Yes! Fuck it I'm off. I’m not hanging about this forlorn shithole - Adios Addis! I’m heading for Harar...Where a man, a famous enigmatic poet once said: 'I is somebody else'. 'I is somebody else' I repeat to myself. But first I must cross the crazy-hazy street traffic with the horns. The city is full of skyscrapers from the 60’s and early 70's – where are the modern glasstop furnished buildings of the promised SpaceAge? It's as if the Ethiopian economic miracle took a break in 1975...and never returned. Probably chewing Khat leaves somewhere.

But this is spurious history. Ethiopia has been home to a sophisticated civilization for millennia. It is home to the oldest Christian, Jewish and Islamic populations outside the Middle East. In fact Islam in Ethiopia dates back to its founding in AD 615, when a group of Mussalmans were consulled by Mohammed to escape persecution in Mecca and travel to modern day Ethiopia. Also Bilal, the first ever muezzin (the person who calls the faithful to prayer) and one of Mohammeds foremost companions, was from Ethiopia. Ethiopia also has its own written language – something that is decidedly rare in the African continent. Its people are tall, high-boned, beautifully crafted specimens of humanity and proud too. But there is much history to be proud. Let's take coffee for example. It was in Ethiopia that coffee, according to legend, was discovered. It is a wonderful fable, probably apocryphal, and I will share it with you:

Once upon a time, circa AD 500 there lived a goat herder by the name of Kaldi. While tending his flock he discovered that his goats were brazen and friskier then usual when they grazed near a certain bush with red berries. He tasted the berries and found that they enlivened and lifted his spirits. So with pocketfulls of berries he ran home to tell his wife of his wonderful discovery:

‘They are heaven sent’ she solemnly declared ‘You must take them to the Monks in the monastery’

So off he went to the monastery where Kaldi presented the berries to the chief Monk, a mousy looking creature with short cropped chin whiskers and covetous eyes, and related to him the story of their miraculous discovery

‘Devils work!’ exclaimed the Monk in indigantion and hurled the berries into the flickering fire

A few moments later the Monastery was filled with the heavenly aroma of roasting beans. The beans were raked from the fire and placed in an ewer with hot water to preserve their aroma. That night the monks sat up till late drinking and savouring the rich fragrant brew and from that day onwards vowed that they would drink it daily to keep themselves awake during their nightly devotions. Coffee then spread to Yemen thence Arabia and finally the rest of the world - Coffea Arabica was born. The governor of Mecca, Beg, saw some people drinking coffee in a mosque as they prepared a night-long prayer vigil. Furious he drove them from the mosque and ordered all coffee houses to be closed. A heated debate ensued, with coffee being condemned as an unhealthy brew by two unscrupulous Persian doctors, the Hakimani brothers. The doctors wanted it banned, for it was a popular cure among the melancholic bipolar patients who other-wise would have paid the doctors to cure them.

The picture of Arabic coffee houses as dens of iniquity and frivolity was exaggerated by religious zealots. In reality the Middle East was the forerunner of the European Café society and the coffee houses of London which became famous London clubs. They were enlightened dens; meeting places for intellectuals where news, gossip and revolutionary ideas mingled in their own heady brew over the hot water soaked beans of coffea arabica. This is exactly the sort of place I am sitting as I type this. Enlightened Revolutionary - yep that's me.

And now we have Starbucks and Nescafe...coffee for phillistines. Coffee for idiots!

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Saturday, April 04, 2009

One Life - One World - One People

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Classics revisited

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Sunday, March 29, 2009

Assalam-o-Alaikum! - Harar, Ethiopia

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Friday, March 27, 2009

Desert Wanderers: Harar, Ethiopia

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The rains had fallen heavy. The sun squinted through a thick haze, a low sky; grey in most places but darker where the rain was falling. It struggled through but found it hard going. It failed to glisten on the shiny rocks near the stream, and the red earth; dry and spare, failed to take on that deep red ochre when it rains. But you could smell it though – that raw earthiness. The clouds, the dull tones, the earthly smell, my armpits, it all felt oppressive. Where was the horizon? Usually it stretched forever, but today it was gone. And with it, it seemed, the possibilities that life offered. Dreams and thoughts require space. Space to stretch and loosen and run around in, with arms splayed screaming ‘Woooooweeeeeee!’

But not today. No 'Woooooweeeee!' today. Today space has shrunk and with it the world and the universe of possibilities. Do forest dwellers dream less than desert peoples? Does seeing the horizon make you wander and wonder more? These are thoughtful questions. Here the land and people are ancient. That is why I've come. Not very far from here, a few hundred kilometres to the north-west, near Assal Lake in Afar, they found Lucy: Australopithecus afarensis. She lived 3.2 million years ago. But I prefer to call her by her more charming Amharic name ‘Dinkenesh’ which means ‘You are beautiful’. I shuffle about on my haunches looking for bits of chalky white bone that may belong to a long lost ancestor – but no luck! I sit on the earth, with my notebook and my trusty pen and do a sketch of the landscape. A written sketch. I can't draw remember. It's feels good to get out of the quagmire that is Harar – for all it’s lugubrious charms it can jangle the nerves a little bit. Out here it is nice. I can see the walled city from here; a clutter of dwellings rising like a sore in the surrounding flatness. I imagine, once upon a time, it would have been a compact city. But today it is a straggling and clogged bureaucracy. The cradle of mankind. So this is where it all began. Doesn’t look like much.

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